• The basic construction techniques allow you to create a finished piece that is both functional and decorative. By carefully reading and following
these plans and directions, and discussing anything that you may not understand with your instructor, you will be able to successfully complete
this project.
• Any home can use a magazine rack and the Shaker-inspired simplicity of this design will comfortably fit into any home décor.
• Because the surfaces of the rack are flat and unadorned with trims and moldings, you will easily learn to apply and master the basic steps for
achieving a high-quality finish.
This magazine rack presents beginning woodworking students with the opportunity to learn a number of important, basic woodworking skills.
These include measuring, marking, clamping, cutting, joinery and ploughing dadoes and edge rabbets. Finally, after constructing this rack, you
will learn how to effectively apply and use finishes to help protect and keep the wood looking beautiful.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits. This means
that you should make the following steps your routine workshop practice:
• Always carefully and fully review plans and instructions before ever
putting a tool to the project lumber.
• If you have any doubts or questions, discuss them with your shop
instructor.
• At the end of every work session, clean up your shop and put away
all tools— so you will start the next work session in a safe and
pleasant atmosphere.
• Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles when doing work that
creates flying chips and sawdust; wear the appropriate respirator
whenever making sawdust or working with thinners or solvents.
PROCEDURE
The instructions that follow are for working with narrow boards
as spelled out in the materials buying list.
1. Lay out parts A, B and C to exact size on your boards and cut these
parts to length.
2. Select pairs for creating each panel (members; two A’s, two B’s). Align
each pair of boards to obtain the most pleasing grain arrangement for each
panel. NOTE: To minimize chance of cupping and warping, boards to be
joined should be laid out so their annular rings are reversed. (See drawing)
3. When satisfied with grain arrangement of the four panels, mark each
with a cabinetmaker’s triangle; then make the matchmarks for ploughing
the biscuit slots.
4. Finally, mark each panel for quick identification (1,2,3,etc.) on the
board ends.
5. Using the plate joiners, plough all boards for the number 20 biscuits.
6. Using the cabinetmaker’s triangle (see drawing) along with matchmarks
on board ends, reassemble the four panels using glue and no.20
biscuits;
apply light pressure with bar clamps to hold the joints closed
while
the glue dries. Set the clamped-up boards aside for 24 hours.
7.Next day, remove the clamps and return them to the clamp rack.
8. Working with a try or combination square lay out the dado and edge
rabbets on both end panels.
9. After making certain router is disconnected from power source,
install a 3/4″-dia. straight cutter set to cut exactly 3/8″ deep. Position
and clamp the straight edge guide to plough your first dado.
Cabinetmaker’s Tip: In order to determine the exact placement
for a clamped-on straight edge guide, you must make a test cut
in scrap stock. To do this after installing and securing the router
cutter, start the router and, carefully and slowly, push the spinning
cutter into the edge of the test stock. As soon as the cutter enters the
wood, release the trigger and hold the router perfectly motionless
until the cutter stops spinning. When it does and without moving
the router, carefully make a pencil mark alongside the edge of the
shoe at board edge. Remove the router and measure the distance
from pencil mark to edge of the groove just cut. This is the offset
for this particular bit; that is, the distance a straightedge guide
must be positioned from the desired groove or dado.
10. Working with one panel at a time, plough all the edge rabbets and
dadoes in both “A” members; make certain you use a securely clamped
guide for the router shoe to ride against, for every cut.
11. Repeat the procedure to cut the edge rabbets at bottom of
members “B”.
12. Temporarily assemble both parts A and B using partially driven
4-penny finishing nails. Turn the rack upside down on bench and
measure the exact dimension for the bottom piece. Then cut “C” to size
and make a test fit to ensure all being as it should be.
13. Visually check the rack overall for fit and appearance. If necessary,
sand corners where they abut to obtain a smooth and neat-looking fit.
Disassemble the rack taking care to not make any hammer marks as
you pull the temporary nails; i.e., use a scrap block of wood beneath
the hammer’s head.
14. On a project like this one— where all parts are flat and without
adornment— sand all of the parts before final assembly. This makes this
part of the job both easier and faster. Start with either 100- or 120-grit
paper, depending upon the condition of your stock, and work your way
up to 150-grit. This abrasive grit will provide an adequate degree of
smoothness on raw pine.
15. The rack can be assembled using carpenter’s glue and a pneumatic
nail gun and 1-1/4″ nails. If preferred, you can instead assemble your
rack with glue, counterbored flathead wood screws and dowels (to hide
the screw heads).
16. Start by fastening one side panel “B” to one of the end panels “A”.
Then install the second side panel and finish by installing the other end
panel. Before glue has a chance to set, place the rack upside down on
your workbench and drop in the bottom; secure it with nails (or screws).
NOTE: It is important that the bottom be installed immediately after
joining the side panels since this is what will hold the rack square while
the glue dries.
17. Leave the rack undisturbed for 24 hours before proceeding to the
staining and finishing section.
STAINING/FINISHING
Cabinetmaker’s Tip: Though you may be tempted to cut short
your sanding and wiping time, don’t do it. Both of these tasks are
very important steps in obtaining a high-quality finish. Remember
that it is the finish on the furniture that people see— and it is the
finish on the piece, as much as any of the building elements, that
will have great bearing on how people judge your craftsmanship.
By following the steps below and the instructions the manufacturer
puts on the can label, you will finish like a professional— even if
this is your very first project.
1. Sand the entire piece using 120-grit abrasive paper, then move up
to 150-grit to complete the pre-finish smoothing. Use a pad sander and
with-the-grain sanding strokes. This should remove any marks or
scratches that may have occurred during assembly— dust off the piece
and wipe it carefully with a tack rag.
2. Apply Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner following the directions
on the label. After 15 minutes, wipe off all excess Conditioner using a
clean, lint-free rag. Proceed to the staining within 2 hours.
3. Do the staining in two steps; first, the interior surfaces, then, the
exterior. Apply the Wood Finish Ipswich Pine (or, the stain
color of your choice) to the interior surfaces using either rag or brush.
Allow stain to set about 10-15 minutes then wipe off all excess stain.
Repeat for the exterior surfaces. Allow stain to dry 24 hours.
Finisher’s Tip: When wiping off stain, make certain that your
last wipe with the cloth is in a with-the-grain direction. This way,
any stain you miss during wipe-off will be visually minimized by the
wood grain.
4. Apply Fast-Drying Polyurethane following the directions on
the can…Note: To obtain the look of hand rubbing, use Satin finish (if a
high shine is desired, use Gloss). In either case, make sure you use a
brush intended for use with Polyurethane. Allow the first coat of finish
to dry overnight.
5. The next day, using with-the-grain strokes, sand all surfaces lightly
with 220-grit paper; dust off and wipe with a tack rag. Apply a second
coat of the Polyurethane and set aside to cure overnight.
6. Finally, sand lightly with 240-grit paper, dust off, wipe with a tack
cloth and apply the third and final coat of Polyurethane. Allow the piece
to cure for several days before actually using the rack. If you opt for a water-based finish—
All the basic finishing steps, such as sanding, dusting, wiping off, apply
when working with water-based finishes. Following are the basic steps
to a water-based finish:
1. When using a water-based stain, first apply a coat of Minwax
Water-Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. This helps to ensure uniform
penetration when applying stain. Apply the Conditioner with a nylonpolyester
brush and allow it to penetrate for about 5 minutes. Then,
wipe
any excess off the surface using a clean, lint-free cloth.
2. Wait about 15 minutes, then, using 180-grit abrasive paper,
sand off any “whiskers” raised by the Conditioner.
3. Apply the stain you selected with either a nylon/polyester brush or
clean rags. Allow stain to penetrate no longer than 3 minutes. While
stain is still wet wipe off all excess with a clean cloth lightly dampened
with stain. Allow the piece to dry for 2 hours before applying a second
coat, if desired. Allow the piece to dry overnight before proceeding with
clear finish.
Finisher’s Tip:
Water-Based Stain is available in six factory
(wood-tone) colors, a White Wash Pickling Stain and 60 custom
colors. This means that you are not limited to just wood colors
(pine, oak, walnut, etc.). Instead, you can actually pick and apply
a color to compliment the décor of the room in which the rack
will stand. For this reason, make sure you look over all of the
color charts before making your final selection.
4. Applying a clear protective finish, Protective Finish, is the final step. Stir the can contents thoroughly
before starting and periodically repeat the stirring during your
work session.
5. Working a small area at a time to maintain a wet edge, apply the first
coat. Work quickly and make the final strokes in each newly finished
section with-the-grain brush strokes.
6. Allow the finish to dry a minimum of 2 hours. Then sand lightly
using 220-grit sandpaper wrapped around a soft backup block.
Thoroughly dust off and wipe with a tack rag.
7. Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 to apply the second coat.
8. Repeat these steps to apply a third and final coat of Protective Finish.
Allow the piece to rest for about a week before putting the rack into service.
When using Polycrylic Protective Finish:
VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid overexposure,
open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering, headaches or dizziness, increase fresh air supply or wear respiratory
protection or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container closed
when not in use. Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage.
DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. FIRST AID. In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts
of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory difficulty, provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, get medical attention immediately.
DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM
OCCUPATIONAL OVEREXPOSURE.
Contains solvents that can cause permanent brain and nervous system
damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling
the contents may be harmful or fatal.
Safe Disposal of Rags & Waste
Please be mindful of the safe way to dispose of rags and other waste. Rags,
steel wool and other waste products soaked with oil finishes or solvents
may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded.
Place rags, steel wool and other waste immediately after use in a waterfilled
metal container. Tightly seal and dispose of the waste materials in
accordance with local trash removal regulations. Be sure to keep the
waste out of reach of children.
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